HALFWAY POINT

Wednesday, November 9^th, 2011

At the House, at 9:25 PM

So I went out for a drink (as in tea) with a fellow American tonight. I was hoping to be back at the house by dinner, but the conversation was good, and I arrived a little late. They saved me a plate of – you guessed it – daal bhat (soup and rice). This is what we eat for breakfast (or “brunch” as they say), lunch and dinner. It was cold. As I began eating the soup I thought to myself, this has a seafood taste to it...interesting. Then I looked down to take another spoonful and saw miniature eyes looking at me – mini fish – anchovies of some kind, with their tiny heads still attached.

I have gotten quite used to the way things are by now, even the grimier details, and I am okay with it. A shower once, maybe twice a week that happens as quickly as possible before the water pools on the floor and begins to seep over my flip flops (the Everest trip prepped me for that), the fact that pollution is a daily vitamin here, and the dirt that becomes both an insulator and a layer of protection against...well...dirt. When I think about such things I get frustrated. I have come up with a solution. Just don't think about it.

My fellow student in Nepali language arts is my small 2 year old friend named Unika, the one who calls me “Jake Uncle.” We are in the same situation because she is just learning to talk the Nepali language. I think she will be moving to the next grade sooner than I will though. She is something of an honors student while I am falling behind!

The past several days I have been busy putting together rough ideas for the streamlined document, and teaching English to the students at the Women's Center. I have also been spending a lot of time at the cafe because I had a huge test this week for school that I had to complete. It was a comprehensive test covering every subject studied for my degree. I completed it today – FINALLY – but I still have other projects and readings to do. It just never ends, does it?

Yesterday we went out into the streets again to look for some “street kids” to “minister” to. I had been out on these trips two other times and to my dismay we had not found any street children, and the afternoons had been spent taking long walks. We were preparing to turn around and walk a few miles back home again when we spied a few small dirty faces in the busy market place. Bibek, the street children minister leader, told me he had talked to them before and that they knew him. They came up to us and talked. We took some pictures and bought them some circle bread (basically a donut) and chia (milk tea). Then a stray dog appeared and I was surprised to see the children – who probably hadn't eaten anything all day – share some of their circle bread with the dog. I asked if the dog was their pet, and they said yes and that his name was Lucky. I'd say so, with the bits of the sweet bread lying at his feet.

THE SWING OF THINGS

Wednesday, November 2nd, 2011

At the House, at 7:00 PM

This week I have been trying hard to catch up on school work I missed while on Everest. I found a cafe with WiFi about 15 minutes walking distance from here and that will definitely help with getting school work sent.

I miss the old house with its cleaner bathrooms, better views, bigger rooms and more privacy. This new house is definitely better in it's proximity to everything though. The main office, the Women's Center, the grocery store, and the cafe are all closer now, as is every other necessary business. The Balku House (the Prayer House) is still about a half hour by bus but luckily I have the cafe now (although I will have to buy something every time I'm there, and the internet isn't 100 percent reliable even there!).

I have also been spending a few hours each day this week helping to teach English to some of the students at the Women's Center. This is where the women at risk come to learn and acquire new skills that will help them get better jobs. I have been using Roshan as an aid and translator help, and as usual he is very helpful. I have enjoyed these days teaching English. My two students have been older women, one who is Sherpa. I was surprised that some of the students here would be older than 35. One is 46 and the other is 50. Apparently they are now taking advantage of educational opportunities now that they weren't allowed to when they were younger. I applaud them for this. They are good students and are eager to learn. My teaching days back home have helped me adjust quickly here. Over the next few days I will begin to talk to them a little about my work in putting together forms for Agape. Brian wants a basic rough draft by early next week.

Last night I went to Roshan's pastor's house for dinner. This house (which is a meager lower level apartment with two bedrooms, a kitchen and a meeting room that serves as the sanctuary) is the same place I preached at a few weeks back. The pastor's wife prepared some daal bhat that was extra tasty and there was some good chicken meat too, which I think is hard to come by. One of his teenage daughters (Roshan's “sister”) played guitar and sang a worship song. I played a little too, while the talented pastor played along on his Nepali flute. The whole evening was charming and I quickly found that family to be filled with exceptionally friendly and genuine people. The whole place seemed to be drenched in God's love, and I'm not trying to be sappy here. There was clearly something unique about that family.

Of course not every experience is as pleasing as last night's dinner. Something I have struggled with here is the lack of organization. I've found that sometimes (or...most of the time?) this is how things are run in the developing world. Usually I would see myself as thriving in moments like these, but the lack of structure and organization has me grasping for straws. At home all I would do is attach myself to a particular way of structuring things that was already set up. Here I find myself having to organize organization! For as discombobulated as things can be back in the States, an American voice is whispering in my ear that it is grateful for the organization we have back in the US. I suppose this is a big part of development – just getting things put together on the ground.

I definitely wish things were more put together for me, and that my purpose was more solidified. It's like I am having to find new reasons every day to bring purpose. Sometimes it doesn't seem like much at all. Sometimes it has more to do with community than it does with any particular assignment I have to complete. Today, for instance, I spent the better part of an hour talking with the pregnant mother and helped to watch her 6 year old child and another little 2 ½ year old. The 2 ½ year old is living here with her mother. Her father left just after she was born. This particular baby – I'll call her Sanisha – has an innate sense that draws her to the males in the community. Today, she wouldn't let any of the female adults feed her spoonfuls of rice. She called out “Jake Uncle!” and I was the only one who she would allow to feed her. She of course is adorable, and I am finding myself in a questionable spot. I don't want to get too close to her because I will be leaving in a little over a month, another male figure come and gone from her life. I don't mind the kids though, or the community here, except when I realize that I am falling behind in my dreaded school work and that I'd better go do something more important, like finish an assignment.

Truth is I'd rather not write one more paper. I'd rather spend the next month allowing myself to be absorbed into the community as much as possible without having to worry about another reading assignment or test. I'd rather spend my time just teaching adults English, and hanging with Roshan and the guys, listening to their stories, and playing with the children and helping to feed Sanisha. That's not how things work though. I need to stay stuck in my room on my computer instead. Please forgive my venting, but it's a little hard to balance living in community, while completing a degree, while doing a development project, while missing home all at once.

EVEREST REFLECTIONS BACK IN KATHMANDU

Sunday, October 30^th, 2011

At the New House, at 10:05 AM

Things are back in full swing here at the community, after the trip to Everest. This morning after breakfast I helped pull water out of the well and helped with the dishes too. It reminded me of the “development” days of America, like a scene from Little House on the Prairie or something. Except this is a subtropical sort of prairie.

There is a baby crying outside. There always seems to be a baby crying somewhere, or a dog barking, or a bus honking a horn, or a motorcycle revving its engine, or music blaring. Sometimes all I want is a quiet place where I can sit and read and contemplate but that is hard to come by, especially during the day. I guess that's to be expected in a place like Kathmandu.

I have been thinking about my trip to Everest Base Camp. It was such an incredible experience. A curious thing happened to me as I got higher in altitude. My appetite went away. For those who know me well, this never happens. It probably had something to do with my altitude sickness. I couldn't really hold much food down, but I didn't feel like eating anyway. When we were finished with our Everest Expedition and were coming back down, at each village my appetite grew significantly. By the time we reached Kathmandu yesterday I felt downright ravenous!

Towards the end of the trek, in the villages at lower altitude, Roshan and I got the chance to be a part of another Nepali/Hindu festival called Tharai. I don't know if that is spelled right. As I write I cannot look it up because I don't have internet! Anyway, for this holiday kids and young adults go around to various houses singing what appears to be a type of carol. They may put on some music and dance too, either a traditional Nepali dance or a more modern style young people enjoy. The people in the houses they sing or dance in front of are expected to give some sort of small monetary donation. It seems to me like a combination of Christmas caroling and trick-or-treating at Halloween, except the reward is money! In the village of Monjo the likeable Roshan made friends with some of the local Sherpa people and both he and I went “caroling” with 4 or 5 other young people. I felt a little out of place because I was the oldest, but nobody cared. I was a foreigner anyway, and most people laughed at my participation appreciatively. To be singing for money in a small Sherpa village in the mountains at night, with the stars shining above and the cold mountain air below felt wonderful. We made about 1500 rupees, about 20 US dollars. Not bad for a couple hours having fun singing. The young people split it amongst themselves.

I loved those Sherpa people. I have tremendous respect for them. Their strength is insane! They carry gas canisters, huge baskets of food, people's gear, doors, rice, cement blocks, you name it – all on their backs. And they do it for miles and miles everyday, like literally 20 miles or more for some of them. I don't know about you, but if I walked marathons up and down a mountainside every day for a living, I probably wouldn't be living. I remember Roshan and I were on the trail and we were passed by a Sherpa girl, probably no more than 16 or 17. She had a backpack on that was probably filled with heavy things, and her pace was so quick. We played a game called “Keep Pace with the Sherpa Girl,” but she blew by us and was out of sight within a couple minutes.

Trekking in the Himalayas was a great time. Be that as it may, for some moments I couldn't help thinking of home, of backpacking on the various trails, one of my favorite past times. I was thinking of how beautiful it must be there now, with the leaves changing and falling. Sure we don't have huge mountains in Pennsylvania, but we do have some beautiful forested hills (that we call “mountains”). I just found out that it just snowed at least half a foot there! On Halloween weekend in October, before the leaves have even gone - that never happens! I am feeling nostalgic for home today, and I wish I was there to experience the October snow.

THE LONG TREK DOWN FROM THE MOUNTAIN

Wednesday, October 26^th, 2011

At The Moon Light Lodge in Namche Bazar at approximately 7:50 PM

Last night we were in Pheriche. Today, Roshan and I trekked from Pheriche all the way here to Namche. It took about 7 ½ hours. My guess is it was probably 16 or 17 miles at least. There was a lot of downhills and uphills, but we made it. We needed to get here because there's an ATM in Namche, and we ran all out this morning to pay for our stay in Pheriche. The woman owner at the Pheriche Resort who we call Didi (“older sister” respectfully) gave us a discount again and she was helpful to Roshan, gave him some noodle soup that he shared with me because all I could afford for both of us this morning was milk tea.

Right now it sounds like I'm missing out on a Sherpa birthday party or something upstairs. There's a lot of singing and stomping. They might just fall through the roof!

Back to Didi...she told Roshan he is like a son to her (remember she knows his Dad), and she gave him some biscuits for the road. Roshan told her he'd like to meet up with her in Kathmandu (where she has a house) in a couple months, after trekking season is finished and winter sets in for real. I suggested to Roshan that if I'm still around, I could “repay” her and take her to dinner in Kathmandu before I leave in December. This may happen. I wrote a note thanking her for her hospitality.

What struck me as fascinating was that she said Roshan was like her son...while Roshan's Dad denounced him as his own son. On the way out of Pheriche today Roshan told me that though he's never known the love of a mother (his own mother left the family shortly after he was born), he “takes love from everybody – sisters, brothers, leaders, friends, and Didi.” I again had visions of Roshan reconciling things with his Dad.

It was rough trekking today but we made it.

 Some of the Sherpa children we met in Pangboche on the way down 

(This little guy may summit Everest one day)

A Buddhist monk walks down the stairs at the Tengboche Monastery

After over 7 hours of hiking, we arrived at Namche, where there was an ATM!
 

THE EXPEDITION TO EVEREST

Tuesday, October 25^th, 2011

At Pheriche Resort (again) in Pheriche at 7:00 PM

Well, we did it. The last couple days have been a blur. Not a whole lot of time to think, just to trek to higher elevation and then get down as quickly as possible. Yesterday – the big day – was definitely rough. I woke up early gasping for air, and I felt my body adjusting to the altitude. I'd take several small gasps, until it was enough and my body would relax...until it started gasping again. This all happened around 3 or 4 in the morning – probably 3:30ish – and I wasn't able to get back to a decent sleep again until about 5. I woke up at approximately 6:15, already 15 minutes later than planned, but I thought it was good that my body was finally able to rest again (for an hour). Then it was up and trekking to Gorak Shep without even brushing my teeth or rinsing off my face. I wanted to get the hell out of Loboche quickly. It was a dirty mess. Plus we had a mountain to conquer!

We made it to Gorak Shep – the last Sherpa hamlet and piece of civilization before the crazy high peaks – but we couldn't find a room in any of the lodges even though we got there before 10:30 AM. We had to opt for the dining room at the Yeti Lodge. That was fine by me because at least we had a place to lay our heads. I was feeling a little light-headed and sick, and tired, but I knew this was our moment. I probably had “summit fever” as well, but I took two Diamox (altitude sickness pills – I had taken one earlier in the day), we left our bags at the lodge, and we were off for Everest Base Camp (a trek to EBC and back to Gorak Shep is about 5 hours). I felt pretty sick the whole time, with my head pounding. Maybe I should have turned back, but I couldn't. We kept going, following in the shadows of another fairly large group. We made it at approximately 1:30 PM. The weather couldn't have been more perfect – not a cloud in the sky. We took some pics and a quick video or two, then we began the trek back. We were pretty exhausted and I still felt sick. The whole EBC experience was rather anticlimactic, considering my altitude sickness, but I'm definitely glad I did it.

Altitude sickness reminds me of a bad hangover. I wish there was a nicer way to put it. On the way back to Gorak Shep I had a pounding headache. I got sick twice, throwing up the Snickers Bar that was our reward for making it to Base Camp. I felt significantly better after that. Roshan was very helpful and cheerful too. He gave me his trekking pole so I had two instead of one. That helped tremendously. When we made it back to the lodge, we sat for dinner and talked with some of the other climbers and hikers. I still didn't feel all that well and I couldn't eat much. We were going to have to wait until everyone went to bed, to sleep in the dining room.

I was exhausted. All I needed was a room with a bed and I had to wait. Eventually I laid down on the bench there, but sleep was hard to find because everyone was talking and having a good time. I had met and talked with several people – this Everest Base Camp is definitely an international event. I've met a Hungarian, a Czech Republican, some Swiss and German folk, some Japanese women, a Singaporean, some people from the UK, a few Israelis, and some French guys. That verse – Micah 4:1-2 seems to hold meaning, although not all of these people were here to “worship” God. They got a great glimpse of his creation though, that's for sure. We all did.

If I'd do it again I would take at least one day for acclimatizing below 4500 meters, as is suggested. Between 4500 and 5000 things started going south for me, but we were on a time limit and I figured the times sleeping at the various villages were enough. I mean, I was okay, nothing terrible happened, I just got a little sick. I tell you though, when all was said and done I was glad to come down a little ways from the rocky heights.

Roshan and I ended up sleeping in a tent outside the Yeti Lodge. This was the last thing I wanted to do, but it actually wasn't so bad. We were given mats and blankets and pillows inside a double walled tent, plus we could go to bed right away, and not have to wait for the others. I was camping out on top of the world. I think it was fitting because I love camping out back home, and here I was in a tent at the foot of Everest. I woke up from my 12 hour slumber at 3:15AM to go to the bathroom. I didn't want to do it but I was glad and grateful when I stepped outside and saw all the stars and walls of mountains on every side. Absolutely spectacular.

This morning, October 25^th, we got up, had a cup of milk tea and headed to Kala Patthar, a steep high group of rocks, several hundred feet and meters above Base Camp, with great views of Everest. I was feeling much better after about 12 hours of rest, and I knew I'd regret it if I didn't go up, especially now that I was feeling well. Roshan, who had been excited about seeing the views from Kala Patthar the day before wasn't so into it this morning on the way up. He told me he was having a hard time breathing. I made sure to take care of him, and when he got to talk to his new “girlfriend” on my cell on the way up, I think his spirits lightened and he was strengthened. The views were incredible. I made sure to take several pics and a video or two on my camera. The whole thing took about 4 hours. We then left Gorak Shep at approximately 1 pm for Pheriche, where we are now. It was a rather long trek back here, but it was made easier because we were mostly going downhill. We came to the same place we stayed at two nights ago, because strangely enough, the owner knows Roshan's Dad, and we got a discount both times. This place is much nicer and cleaner than the higher villages. We are having to count our rupees because we won't get to another ATM until we reach Namche again, which will hopefully be tomorrow but that's going to be a long 7 hour trek. We should be okay I think.

It occurred to me, while trekking down today that it would be great to see Roshan and his Dad “reconciled” in a sense. We were talking about it, and about how God had other plans for Roshan when he was kicked out of his father's house 6 months ago for being a Christian and not a Hindu. Roshan said if that hadn't happened, he wouldn't be seeing Everest with me on this awesome trekking trip. I agreed and then thought about how God is about making stale relationships between people right again, and I suggested this to Roshan. He thought this was a good idea. He said he'd take me to meet his father in Kathmandu one day. If any kind of reconciliation between Roshan and his dad is possible (which it is of course) I would like to be of any help possible. If I can be of help, great! If not, then I won't interfere. I ask God for insight into this situation. For now, I need sleep; we have a long journey ahead! 

 One of the first views of Everest (it's actually the tiny one in the middle, in the distance)

 

There is a famous picture of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on Everest.  This is not it.

(Though it is a lame attempt at recreating it - maybe the tourists in the background give it away)

 Something I saw.

Our tent

Something else I saw (a view of Mount Everest from Kala Patthar)

Me and the mountains.  Everest is on the left. Nuptse is on the right.

INTO THE AETHER

Sunday, October 23^rd, 2011

In Loboche at approximately 5:24 PM

Elevation: 4840 meters 15,890 feet

Micah 4:1-2

“It shall come to pass in the latter days that the mountain of the house of the LORD shall be established as the highest of the mountains, and it shall be lifted up above the hills; and peoples shall flow to it, and many nations shall come, and say: 'Come, let us go up to the mountain of the LORD, to the house of the God of Jacob, that he may teach us his ways and that we may walk in his paths.' For out of Zion shall go forth the law, and the word of the LORD from Jerusalem.”

I am discovering that the very act of trekking to Everest Base Camp is a kind of act of worship. Some people might find this an odd thing to mention, but I've never been one who is afraid to talk about my faith. The trek is a kind of Mecca experience, only I'm a Christian, and I'm going to the “mountain of the Lord,” so to speak.

It's been tough but worth it, over the past two days. Today, the closer we got to 5,000 meters the more I have been feeling the effects of altitude. When we arrived in Loboche at around 1:30 pm, Roshan and I both had headaches – he was more vocal about it so I made sure we got some tea and garlic soup to warm us up. We also prayed for Roshan's headache. I gave him some Advil and within an hour he was his chipper, hilarious usual self.

I love trekking with Roshan. He has a great sense of humor – can be a real goofball at times – but he also has a serious deeper side. The Sherpa guide Chowang told Roshan that he is a deep thinking man. That's something else I like about Roshan – his ability to look deeply at situations, especially our current trek to Everest. We are both learning a lot, but I like it when Roshan talks to the experienced Sherpa guides – I think he is learning a lot, and I think the older guides are drawn to him because at 16, he's probably the youngest “guide” on the trail.

We are staying in a dirty, messy lodge, but at least we have a bed – a couple came in maybe an hour after us, and since we had taken the last room, I think they are staying in the dining room. The geography is so rugged. Roshan and I climbed up to 5,000 meters approximately after putting our bags in our room and resting. This will help us for tomorrow's hike.

Tomorrow is the big day. We are getting up at 6 AM, eating at 6:30, hitting the trail at 7, and we hope to be at Gorak Shep by 10 or 11 AM. We hope to book a room, put our bags down and head for Base Camp around noon, if conditions are good. Because it is high season for trekking, we've been lucky to sort of “piggyback” with other guides and groups, and there are people everywhere.

It's crazy. I look out my window and I see a post card. A beautiful white peak (well, several) pitted against a true blue sky as dusk rapidly arrives. This is truly a journey of a lifetime.

PS. We spent last night at Pheriche, just above the tree line. It reminded me of pictures I've seen of Alaska.

In Pheriche

Sherpa Ash Tray

In the lodge at Loboche with the Sherpas around the heat source: a stove that burns yak dung

THE LONG TREK UPWARD

Friday, October 21^th, 2011

At Trekker's Lodge, in Tengboche at 9:05 PM

Elevation: 3825 meters 12,560 feet

It seems the higher you go on this trek, the more serious and extreme things get. Each level seems to get more primitive, more void of common modern amenities, more expensive, more rugged, and absolutely more beautiful. I am beginning to understand the lure of the heights for the old Buddhist priests and hermits. It's really cold too. It feels like winter. I am writing at my bed all bundled up and wearing gloves. We arrived at Tengboche at 5:00pm completely exhausted for the altitude and long trek upwards today. Our lodge is simple and quiet. During dinner there were some mountain worn foreigners and experienced Sherpas everywhere, but not much too much conversation. When the lodge manager brought out fuel for the wood stove Roshan said in his special way “Dis is doilet of yak.” I was surprised at how much it smelled like pine rather than dried up “toilet of yak.” Though we were clearly exhausted, the meal warmed us up well, and Roshan said it best. “Sherpa stew is my medicine.”

I was happy and proud to have met our friends Ursula and Chowang yesterday. We had breakfast together this morning at Namche before the trek, and I found out that Chowang had met Sir Edmund Hillary twice and went trekking with him. There was a picture of Chowang and all his fellow Sherpas who have summited Everest at the Sherpa museum, which was connected to our hotel.

Today's hike was definitely the hardest so far. It's compounded by the fact that I'm carrying probably 35 pounds of gear on my back. At over 12,500 feet, this is the highest I've been on Earth. It's quite disturbing to realize that if I double my altitude, I'd still be several thousand feet below Everest's peak. When I get back to the States I want to read about Hillary and Norgay to see how they accomplished the impossible. For now, my head hurts and I am going to bed.

                                        Some Sherpa children we encountered during a lunch break.  You may be able to see their wind burned cheeks.  This is a common occurance for Sherpa people, more noticeable on the younger ones I think.

         This is the view out the window in the hallway of the lodge right after we arrived.  The sun had already set.

The view near our lodge.  The Tengboche Buddhist Monastery is in the foreground.