Sunday, October 23rd, 2011
In Loboche at approximately 5:24 PM
Elevation: 4840 meters 15,890 feet
Micah 4:1-2
“It shall come to pass in the latter days that the mountain of the house of the LORD shall be established as the highest of the mountains, and it shall be lifted up above the hills; and peoples shall flow to it, and many nations shall come, and say: 'Come, let us go up to the mountain of the LORD, to the house of the God of Jacob, that he may teach us his ways and that we may walk in his paths.' For out of Zion shall go forth the law, and the word of the LORD from Jerusalem.”
I am discovering that the very act of trekking to Everest Base Camp is a kind of act of worship. Some people might find this an odd thing to mention, but I've never been one who is afraid to talk about my faith. The trek is a kind of Mecca experience, only I'm a Christian, and I'm going to the “mountain of the Lord,” so to speak.
It's been tough but worth it, over the past two days. Today, the closer we got to 5,000 meters the more I have been feeling the effects of altitude. When we arrived in Loboche at around 1:30 pm, Roshan and I both had headaches – he was more vocal about it so I made sure we got some tea and garlic soup to warm us up. We also prayed for Roshan's headache. I gave him some Advil and within an hour he was his chipper, hilarious usual self.
I love trekking with Roshan. He has a great sense of humor – can be a real goofball at times – but he also has a serious deeper side. The Sherpa guide Chowang told Roshan that he is a deep thinking man. That's something else I like about Roshan – his ability to look deeply at situations, especially our current trek to Everest. We are both learning a lot, but I like it when Roshan talks to the experienced Sherpa guides – I think he is learning a lot, and I think the older guides are drawn to him because at 16, he's probably the youngest “guide” on the trail.
We are staying in a dirty, messy lodge, but at least we have a bed – a couple came in maybe an hour after us, and since we had taken the last room, I think they are staying in the dining room. The geography is so rugged. Roshan and I climbed up to 5,000 meters approximately after putting our bags in our room and resting. This will help us for tomorrow's hike.
Tomorrow is the big day. We are getting up at 6 AM, eating at 6:30, hitting the trail at 7, and we hope to be at Gorak Shep by 10 or 11 AM. We hope to book a room, put our bags down and head for Base Camp around noon, if conditions are good. Because it is high season for trekking, we've been lucky to sort of “piggyback” with other guides and groups, and there are people everywhere.
It's crazy. I look out my window and I see a post card. A beautiful white peak (well, several) pitted against a true blue sky as dusk rapidly arrives. This is truly a journey of a lifetime.
PS. We spent last night at Pheriche, just above the tree line. It reminded me of pictures I've seen of Alaska.
In Pheriche
Sherpa Ash Tray
In the lodge at Loboche with the Sherpas around the heat source: a stove that burns yak dung



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