Jake's World Weidler Blog --- Nepal: THE EXPEDITION TO EVEREST

Tuesday, October 25^th, 2011

At Pheriche Resort (again) in Pheriche at 7:00 PM

Well, we did it. The last couple days have been a blur. Not a whole lot of time to think, just to trek to higher elevation and then get down as quickly as possible. Yesterday – the big day – was definitely rough. I woke up early gasping for air, and I felt my body adjusting to the altitude. I'd take several small gasps, until it was enough and my body would relax...until it started gasping again. This all happened around 3 or 4 in the morning – probably 3:30ish – and I wasn't able to get back to a decent sleep again until about 5. I woke up at approximately 6:15, already 15 minutes later than planned, but I thought it was good that my body was finally able to rest again (for an hour). Then it was up and trekking to Gorak Shep without even brushing my teeth or rinsing off my face. I wanted to get the hell out of Loboche quickly. It was a dirty mess. Plus we had a mountain to conquer!

We made it to Gorak Shep – the last Sherpa hamlet and piece of civilization before the crazy high peaks – but we couldn't find a room in any of the lodges even though we got there before 10:30 AM. We had to opt for the dining room at the Yeti Lodge. That was fine by me because at least we had a place to lay our heads. I was feeling a little light-headed and sick, and tired, but I knew this was our moment. I probably had “summit fever” as well, but I took two Diamox (altitude sickness pills – I had taken one earlier in the day), we left our bags at the lodge, and we were off for Everest Base Camp (a trek to EBC and back to Gorak Shep is about 5 hours). I felt pretty sick the whole time, with my head pounding. Maybe I should have turned back, but I couldn't. We kept going, following in the shadows of another fairly large group. We made it at approximately 1:30 PM. The weather couldn't have been more perfect – not a cloud in the sky. We took some pics and a quick video or two, then we began the trek back. We were pretty exhausted and I still felt sick. The whole EBC experience was rather anticlimactic, considering my altitude sickness, but I'm definitely glad I did it.

Altitude sickness reminds me of a bad hangover. I wish there was a nicer way to put it. On the way back to Gorak Shep I had a pounding headache. I got sick twice, throwing up the Snickers Bar that was our reward for making it to Base Camp. I felt significantly better after that. Roshan was very helpful and cheerful too. He gave me his trekking pole so I had two instead of one. That helped tremendously. When we made it back to the lodge, we sat for dinner and talked with some of the other climbers and hikers. I still didn't feel all that well and I couldn't eat much. We were going to have to wait until everyone went to bed, to sleep in the dining room.

I was exhausted. All I needed was a room with a bed and I had to wait. Eventually I laid down on the bench there, but sleep was hard to find because everyone was talking and having a good time. I had met and talked with several people – this Everest Base Camp is definitely an international event. I've met a Hungarian, a Czech Republican, some Swiss and German folk, some Japanese women, a Singaporean, some people from the UK, a few Israelis, and some French guys. That verse – Micah 4:1-2 seems to hold meaning, although not all of these people were here to “worship” God. They got a great glimpse of his creation though, that's for sure. We all did.

If I'd do it again I would take at least one day for acclimatizing below 4500 meters, as is suggested. Between 4500 and 5000 things started going south for me, but we were on a time limit and I figured the times sleeping at the various villages were enough. I mean, I was okay, nothing terrible happened, I just got a little sick. I tell you though, when all was said and done I was glad to come down a little ways from the rocky heights.

Roshan and I ended up sleeping in a tent outside the Yeti Lodge. This was the last thing I wanted to do, but it actually wasn't so bad. We were given mats and blankets and pillows inside a double walled tent, plus we could go to bed right away, and not have to wait for the others. I was camping out on top of the world. I think it was fitting because I love camping out back home, and here I was in a tent at the foot of Everest. I woke up from my 12 hour slumber at 3:15AM to go to the bathroom. I didn't want to do it but I was glad and grateful when I stepped outside and saw all the stars and walls of mountains on every side. Absolutely spectacular.

This morning, October 25^th, we got up, had a cup of milk tea and headed to Kala Patthar, a steep high group of rocks, several hundred feet and meters above Base Camp, with great views of Everest. I was feeling much better after about 12 hours of rest, and I knew I'd regret it if I didn't go up, especially now that I was feeling well. Roshan, who had been excited about seeing the views from Kala Patthar the day before wasn't so into it this morning on the way up. He told me he was having a hard time breathing. I made sure to take care of him, and when he got to talk to his new “girlfriend” on my cell on the way up, I think his spirits lightened and he was strengthened. The views were incredible. I made sure to take several pics and a video or two on my camera. The whole thing took about 4 hours. We then left Gorak Shep at approximately 1 pm for Pheriche, where we are now. It was a rather long trek back here, but it was made easier because we were mostly going downhill. We came to the same place we stayed at two nights ago, because strangely enough, the owner knows Roshan's Dad, and we got a discount both times. This place is much nicer and cleaner than the higher villages. We are having to count our rupees because we won't get to another ATM until we reach Namche again, which will hopefully be tomorrow but that's going to be a long 7 hour trek. We should be okay I think.

It occurred to me, while trekking down today that it would be great to see Roshan and his Dad “reconciled” in a sense. We were talking about it, and about how God had other plans for Roshan when he was kicked out of his father's house 6 months ago for being a Christian and not a Hindu. Roshan said if that hadn't happened, he wouldn't be seeing Everest with me on this awesome trekking trip. I agreed and then thought about how God is about making stale relationships between people right again, and I suggested this to Roshan. He thought this was a good idea. He said he'd take me to meet his father in Kathmandu one day. If any kind of reconciliation between Roshan and his dad is possible (which it is of course) I would like to be of any help possible. If I can be of help, great! If not, then I won't interfere. I ask God for insight into this situation. For now, I need sleep; we have a long journey ahead!